The Covet: How We Curate Our Pre-Owned Selection, and Why We Launched It

The Covet is The Solist's pre-owned range. Every piece in it has had a previous owner, which sets it apart from our main selection of past-season and store display stock.

The Covet is The Solist's pre-owned range. Every piece in it has had a previous owner, which sets it apart from our main selection of past-season and store display stock.

We built it for one reason. Some of the watches, bags and jewels our clients ask for most never reach the past-season market at all. The Covet is how we bring those pieces to you, chosen with the same care as everything else we sell.

Why we launched The Covet

Our main range comes from brands and their authorized retailers: pieces from earlier seasons, or ones that spent time in a display cabinet. That route works well for many houses. For others, it barely exists.

  • Some houses rarely release stock this way. In our experience, names like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Hermès seldom reach past-season channels. If you want one below retail, a previous owner is usually the realistic route.

  • Discontinued pieces only exist on the wrists of owners. Once a reference leaves production, it can't be found new. A vintage Patek Philippe Gondolo or a limited-edition Audemars Piguet is only available because someone chose to part with it.

The Covet sits in its own space so you always know what you're buying. If a piece is in The Covet, it has had an owner. If it's in our main range, it hasn't. Our article What Is The Solist? explains how the main range works.

What makes the cut

The Covet's own standard is four words: rarity, condition, desirability and originality. Here's what each means in practice.

  • Rarity. We look for pieces that are hard to find, not just expensive. Limited editions, discontinued references and early versions of well-known designs come first.

  • Condition. Wear is expected on a piece that's been owned. What matters is whether it's honest wear that suits the piece's age, rather than damage.

  • Desirability. The piece needs lasting appeal. We favor designs collectors have wanted for decades over short-lived trends.

  • Originality. Original parts matter most. A watch with a replacement dial or a bag with altered hardware is worth less to collectors, whatever it looks like.

What's in The Covet right now

Watches range from $995 to $116,900. Cartier is the largest single house, alongside Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. A few that show the range:

Browse them all in pre-owned watches.

Handbags run from $845 to $7,450, led by Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Hermès and Goyard. The Hermès Garden Party 30 ($4,995) in Etoupe leather and the Goyard Saint Louis GM ($3,150) in green canvas are two examples. See pre-owned handbags.

Jewelry runs from $995 to $84,800. Alongside Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels, it includes estate pieces by Goshwara. Estate jewelry means a piece that has had a previous owner, often bought from a private collection. The Goshwara natural pearl and diamond drop earrings ($73,000) are one. See pre-owned fine jewelry.

Want a shorter edit? Our picks brings together a selection from across all three categories.

How Covet pieces are checked

Every Covet piece goes through three steps before it's listed.

  • Who we buy from. Pieces come through a tight network of private collectors and trusted dealers, all with documentation certified by our team. 

  • Examination. Our specialists, with more than three decades in the trade, examine every watch before it's sold. Each piece is checked to confirm it's authentic.

  • Documentation. Where the original box, papers or a certificate exist, they come with the piece.

The Covet's promise page sets out the standard in the team's own words.

How to read a Covet listing

A pre-owned listing tells you more than a new one, if you know where to look. Before you buy, check these five things:

  • The year. Some listings state when the piece was made, like the 1997 Daytona above. If it's missing and it matters to you, ask.

  • How wear is described. Look for a plain statement such as "signs of wear". Study the photos, which show the actual piece.

  • What's included. Box, card, papers and dust bag each add to value. The listing should say which are present.

  • Edition numbers. For a limited edition, the listing should give the edition size. Some pieces also carry an individual number on the caseback.

  • What you'd pay new. Covet listings show our price. If you'd like to compare it with the original retail price or recent market prices, our concierge team can help.

For more on how buying here compares with a boutique, read The Solist vs. traditional luxury retail.

The Covet List: ask us to look for something

If the piece you want isn't in stock, tell us. The Covet List, on The Covet page, asks for the brands, styles and budget you have in mind. The team then looks for it through the same partner network. You can also book a private consultation, in person or by video.

FAQs

Is it better to buy luxury watches pre-owned?

It depends on what you want. Buying pre-owned can get you a model that's no longer made, or one with a waiting list at retail, often for less than the current list price. The trade-offs are wear and, in many cases, a manufacturer's warranty that has already run out. If you want a specific current model in perfect condition, buying new is simpler.

What are the best pre-owned watches to buy?

The models that hold interest longest tend to be well-known references from established houses: a Rolex Daytona or Datejust, a Cartier Tank or Santos, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Look for original parts, a clear history and the box and papers where possible. Those factors matter more to future value than the exact model.

Does a pre-owned watch lose value?

Most of a luxury watch's drop in value happens when it's first sold. After that, prices for many well-known models tend to move more slowly, and some rise. No watch is a guaranteed investment, so buy one you want to wear, and treat any rise in value as a bonus.

The Solist Watch Warranty

All watches are authentic and come with a two year Solist warranty covering manufacturer defects in the movement, hands, and dial. Unauthorized third-party service voids the warranty.

What does "estate jewelry" mean?

Estate jewelry is any piece that has had a previous owner. The term often describes pieces from private collections or inheritances. It says nothing about age on its own: an estate piece can be decades old or only a few years old.

Where can I find pre-owned designer bags?

Specialist luxury sellers with a clear condition policy are the safest place to start. Look for detailed measurements, photos of the actual bag, and a list of what's included, such as a dust bag or pouch. Our pre-owned handbags include Hermès, Chanel, Goyard and Yves Saint Laurent.